Exclusive new study from Sytheon on 9 commercial cosmetic products to assess the level of Bakuchiol, the natural alternative to retinol

February, 4th 2020, Boonton, NJ. Sytheon recently commissioned an analytical study to assess the level of Bakuchiol in nine commercial cosmetic products from the USA and Europe. Out of the 9 consumer cosmetics tested, 8 did contain significant concentrations of Sytenol^® A in line with the declared or expected values for optimal performances, whereas one product (Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Serum from HERBIVORE BOTANICAL) failed to show significant presence.

Bakuchiol has seen its use and popularity spiked after a publication from Dhaliwal & al in the British journal of Dermatology in 2018¹. Sytenol^® A, commercial name of Bakuchiol was found to be a gentler alternative to retinol for topical skin treatment, with better photostability and similar performance in addressing photoaging.

Numerous brands have launched cosmetic products capitalizing on the claims associated with Bakuchiol, including reducing key signs of aging like wrinkles and fine lines and improving acne-prone skin. Like other cosmetic active agents, its benefit is directly related to the presence of an appropriate level of Bakuchiol as well as its stability in the formula. Hence, Sytheon selected 9 commercial serums and oils and the level of Bakuchiol was assessed by an external lab.

The report confirmed that almost all tested products complied to their claims and contained optimal levels of Bakuchiol, from 0.5 to 2.14%. This also suggests the excellent stability of Bakuchiol in formulation, unlike retinol. A recent publication from Temova & Al² revealed retinoid instabilities in almost all tested commercial cosmetics through long-term and accelerated stability testing.
From Bakuchiol analytical benchmark, only one product stood out. The water-based Herbivore Bakuchiol Serum contained only 2.27 ppm of Bakuchiol when 1% has been claimed by the brand on social media. This does not indicate a stability issue but rather the use of a water-based extract from a part of the plant Psoralea Corylifolia (as indicated on the INCI list), which cannot contain a hydrophobic substance such as Bakuchiol.

Over the years, Bakuchiol has become the popular alternative to retinol for sensitive skin, and unlike retinol it has confirmed to be stable in formulation. In a world where the need for transparency is higher than ever, it is the responsibility of the cosmetic industry to respect their consumers by providing safe, stable products that contain what they claim.

More details about the study can be found on www.bakuchiol.net

About Sytheon

Sytheon Ltd is an innovative research-focused company committed to identifying and developing high-performance active ingredients for the personal care industry.  Each active ingredient in the Sytheon portfolio is inspired by nature and “Built for Performance.” Moreover, all Sytheon active ingredients have been scientifically and clinically validated to improve the health and beauty of the skin.

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